Mas d'en Compte Blanc

ricard

Tags: opulent voluptuous creamy honey almond

Food pairing: This *is* food.

I have an obligation to add this wine to Bottletalk. It's arguably one of the best whites in Spain and deserves wider recognition, even though Robert Parker has already discovered it. I'm also not likely to rate a wine "outstanding" or "desert island" on this website but I'll do so today. The varieties are 40% Garnatxa Blanca (Grenache Blanc), 40% Picapoll and 20% Pansal and/or perhaps some Xarel.lo (these last few are Catalan varieties, although Picapoll is know to English speakers as "Picpoul" from Languedoc). You thought Priorat was all about world-class *red* wines. Think again. It's got an absurdly dark, brooding, bronzed golden colour, and a nose of ridiculous complexity, mostly honey, molasses, toasted almonds and cream. The taste is really something special (some writers have called this wine "difficult", which is interesting - for me it's instant, irresistible seduction). It's almost like a white port: marmalade, orange and honey combine beautifully with oak, vanilla and apricots to produce a sensual, decadent finish. It makes the eyes water with emotion and gratitude. The acidity is just right to guard against excessive sweetness. I don't think it's the best vintage - 2003 was a record hot summer with very varied results all over the Iberian peninsula - I think 2001 is the best Mas d'en Compte I've ever tasted, but if you can get your hands on *any* vintage, you should be happy to pay up to £40. This is what wine is all about: unfettered pleasure. Life is too short.

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